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With a history of selling fish dating back to 1742, Wiltons is totally immune to the vagaries of fashion & fortune. Whatever the financial climate, there will always be takers for market-price lobster & Dover sole – so long as you’re dressed appropriately, in tie & jacket (with very deep pockets). Wiltons’ current incarnation dates from 1984, but it’s already reassuringly set in its ways – a clubby cocoon of green-velvet banquettes & frosted glass, where mobile phones are actively chided by staff straight out of PG Wodehouse. ‘Superb English food’ includes potted shrimps, smoked eel & dressed crab followed by grilled halibut or poached wild turbot; there are also roasts from the trolley, & more modish specials such as spiced fillets of plaice with tomato & anchovy – although the real seasonal star is game. A three-course lunch with two glasses of wine, served in 45 minutes for £45, offers notable value.