55 JERMYN STREET
LONDON SW1Y 6LX
Reservations 0207 629 9955
Fax 0207 495 6233
Monday to Friday
for lunch and dinner
excluding bank holidays
Print this pageSquare Meal 2010
Suited-&-booted WILTONS is where the gentlemen of St James's come to be cosseted in velvety, old-fashioned surrounds – so the recent arrival of chef Andrew Turner (famed for his modish grazing dishes) must have raised a few eyebrows. Respectful staff push his multi-course tasting menu enthusiastically, although the kitchen still remains true to Wiltons raison d'être: serving simple things exceptionally well. Dressed crab is sparklingly fresh, while foie gras terrine cuts like butter to be spread on the softest brioche. Scallops with black pudding tastes newly minted, & Dover sole is clearly the best available from the market. The theme of satisfying generosity continues with sherry trifle served in a martini glass, & tangy Welsh rarebit. This is a restaurant that puts a smile on the face & a warm glow in the belly – until the bill arrives. Which explains why nearly everyone is 40-plus, soberly attired & doing business.
