If you want to glimpse a vanishing way of life (and have deep pockets), head for Wiltons. The cossetting service, the classic decor (muted colours and paintings that won't frighten the horses) and the sense of calm are perfect for anyone who finds the 21st century a bit much. It almost doesn't matter what the food's like, but it's better than you might think, and there's always the long wine list to soothe. Warm potted shrimps were a neat little mound of comfort food, and better than a generous portion of workaday kipper pâté. There's game in season, and a dish of the day from the magnificent carving trolley (salmon coulibiac on this occasion), but roast rack of lamb did us proud: four beautifully pink pieces, with gravy and gratin potatoes, plus vividly green broad beans as a side. Sea bass on wild mushrooms and bacon also passed muster. Puddings are English or cheese, but we decided against a £12 bowl of strawberries, especially as excellent coffee comes with a divine dark WILTONS chocolate, rum fudge and frozen salted caramel. Seating is in snug booths or at nicely spaced tables or on bar seats. Picnic baskets are available too. Worth a visit just for the experience. 

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