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Saveur Magazine

One Restaurant We'll Never Grouse About

What is it about Wiltons that makes us want to eat there, instead of at the newest gastronomic theme park or Euro-trat, every time we're in London? Is it the grouse (in autumn), roasted perfectly, just gamy enough? Is it the flawless grilled dover sole or the opulent lobster thermidor? The Colchester oysters tasting of the sea or the gently smoky kipper pâté, just like the one we could never resist ordering at the Connaught (whose former chef, Jérôme Ponchelle, is now ensconced here)?

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